In September 2025, I discovered another beautiful little gorge on Crete: the Myli Gorge, also known as the Valley of the Mills. This time, I wasn’t traveling with my family, but with my friend Sakis, who lives in our village of Panormo and has since become a very good friend.
Sakis let me talk him into going hiking with me :). And the best part about this hike: it was practically right on our doorstep. From Suite Leon in Panormo, it was just under 25 kilometers toward Rethymno. By Cretan standards, that’s really a trip you can take at a leisurely pace in the morning.
No big plan, no long day of hiking, no complicated arrangements. Just set out, enjoy a bit of nature and some good conversation, and see what the trail has in store for us that day.
Start: Suite Leon in Panormo
Travel time: about 25 kilometers toward Rethymno
Destination: Myli Gorge / Valley of the Mills
Duration: about 2.5 hours, including breaks
Difficulty: easy to moderate
Suitable for children: yes, with sturdy shoes
Entry Fee: free
Highlights: Old water mills, a stream, and a tavern surrounded by greenery
Best time: spring, fall, or a morning that isn’t too hot
We set out from Panormo in the morning and arrived at the gorge around 10:00–10:30. The Myli Gorge is located near Rethymno and is significantly smaller and easier to reach than the large, well-known gorges of Crete. But that’s exactly what makes it so charming.
The gorge is more of a hike for people who want to experience Crete away from the beaches: green, quiet, shady, with water, ancient walls, and little surprises along the way!!
We entered the gorge from the valley side. Although it’s actually recommended to start from the upper mountain side and hike downhill, we didn’t follow that advice ;).
At the start, we walked through a beautiful, shady area with lots of greenery. That was especially pleasant in September, because even though the hottest days of summer are slowly coming to an end, it can still be warm in Crete.
The trail led us through the forest and past a small stream, deeper and deeper into the gorge’s unique atmosphere. The Myli Gorge feels completely different from the Samaria or Imbros Gorges. It’s not as massive, not quite as dramatic, and not as barren—there’s a lot going on here! It’s much greener, smaller, quieter, and somehow more “enchanted.”
You can hear water, see old walls among the plants, walk along narrow paths, and keep getting the feeling that this place was once truly alive.
The name Myli means “mills,” and that’s exactly what this gorge is all about. In the past, there were numerous water mills here, powered by the stream. Today, you can still see many remnants of these old mills—walls, canals, and buildings. Some areas have been restored, while others have been partially reclaimed by nature.
That’s what makes the hike so varied. You’re not just walking through a gorge—you’re walking through a piece of Cretan history! Everywhere you look, you discover little details: old stones, streams, abandoned buildings, overgrown paths, and, time and again, beautiful photo opportunities that we both took advantage of.
The Myli Gorge isn’t the kind of gorge that overwhelms you with its size. Instead, it captivates you quietly… with its atmosphere, shade, water, and the feeling of walking through a forgotten valley.
Of course, it wouldn’t be a real trip to Crete if we hadn’t come across some cats. In the Myli Gorge, we saw several of them, including a particularly beautiful black cat that we even ran into twice. For me, little encounters like these are just part of the experience in Crete and make a hike even more personal.
Toward the end of our tour—at least if you start from the valley side—we came to a small tavern surrounded by greenery. It’s located right along the trail and is beautifully nestled in nature. We found it particularly charming that the food is lowered from the road using a rope winch. The selection wasn’t huge, but it was more than enough: a few simple dishes, a refreshing drink, a beer, maybe a raki, some shade, and the satisfying feeling of having just experienced a truly wonderful morning in Crete.
It was especially nice for me to go on this hike with Sakis. We’ve known each other since January 2022 from Panormo, and over time, it’s turned into a real friendship—and spending time with him is always a pleasure.
We’ve already shared quite a few experiences together: working on the house, evenings in taverns, conversations in Panormo, and even nights in Rethymno that didn’t end until the early morning hours. It’s exactly people like these who make Crete so special to me.
During the hike, we had wonderful conversations, walked at a leisurely pace, and stopped every now and then. A simple hike suddenly becomes a memory when you have good conversations, laugh, pause, and don’t rush the moment. That’s exactly how a morning in Crete should feel.
The Myli Gorge isn’t a long, strenuous day hike. It’s more of a short nature and history experience near Rethymno. That’s exactly what makes it so worth visiting.
For guests staying at Suite Leon in Panormo, this is an ideal half-day excursion. It’s not far to drive; you’ll quickly find yourself in a completely different landscape and experience a quiet, green, and very unspoiled side of Crete.
If you like old water mills, narrow paths, shady natural surroundings, cats, and a tavern nestled in the countryside, you’ll most likely love the Myli Gorge.
Our tip: Don’t rush. The trail isn’t long, but it’s the little moments that make it special. Stop, look around, take photos, listen to the water, discover the old mills, and stop for a bite to eat at the tavern at the end. That’s exactly what this hike is perfect for.