The Samaria Gorge: a race against time in the heart of Crete
Crete is full of surprises, and our trip to the Samaria Gorge last year was definitely one of the most intense moments of our trip. It was a day full of awe for nature, “relaxed” calves and pure relief when we reached the sea after hours. A real adventure on our own, without much tourist company, just with my older brother and my godchild!
A leisurely start with obstacles
We had actually planned everything pretty precisely, but as is often the case on vacations, things turn out differently sometimes:). We took things a bit more easygoing that morning, and our departure for the Omalos plateau ended up later than planned.
Unfortunately, my wife Sabrina and my son Leon couldn’t be there due to a minor illness, and my sister also had to miss out because of her young daughter. So the three of us finally set off: My brother, my brother’s daughter and me. We started at the Xyloskalo entrance at around 1 p.m. – a very late start for one of the longest gorges in Europe! (Lessons learned ;))
4.5 hours through a legendary landscape
The descent down the famous stone steps was just the beginning of a four-and-a-half-hour hike through a world of rock and water.
The descent: The trail descends steeply over countless hairpin bends into the heart of the Samaria Gorge. Here you hike through forests of ancient cypress trees, while the peaks of the massif tower majestically over you at over 600 meters high. Every step on the wooden or stone steps offers new, spectacular views into the depths.
Waterways: After the steep passages, we hiked past crystal-clear streams that radiate a wonderful freshness even in summer. The path led us through green valleys and over small wooden bridges, while the scent of pine trees lingered in the air and the massive rock faces rose ever higher.
Pure nature: My godchild was fascinated by the wild scenery and the rare Kri-Kri goats on the slopes. Especially at the “Iron Gate”, where the gorge is only four meters wide, you feel tiny between the vertical rocks and are in awe of the power of nature.
The final spurt: the race against the ferry
As we had only started at the Xyloskalo entrance around midday, the time window became tighter and tighter with every kilometer in the gorge. The pressure on our necks grew with every meter, because we knew that the only ferry in Agia Roumeli leaves the port on time at 5:30 pm. There is no alternative in this remote place in the south of Crete – if you miss the ferry, you’re out of luck – or you can take a room and stay overnight there.
The last two kilometers therefore put us to a real test. To make sure we could still buy our tickets at the ticket office in time, we almost ran the last stretch to the sea, me and my brother’s daughter neck and neck. It was a battle against the clock, but we made it! We reached our destination shortly before half past five, completely out of breath but happy. An absolute precision landing!
However, we have learned one thing from this day: Next time we will probably take a more relaxed approach and stay in a hotel right down in Agia Roumeli for one night. Then we can enjoy the spectacular nature of the gorge without any time pressure and end the day comfortably by the sea instead of constantly looking at the clock. And, another plus, we can still go swimming in the sea.Â
Reward on the Libyan Sea
On the ferry, all the tension fell away from us. We treated ourselves to a little refreshment on the ferry and enjoyed the view of the coast as the ship took us to Sougia. From there, we came full circle: we took the bus back up the winding road to the parking lot in Omalos, where our car was waiting.
The day ended with a two-hour drive back to Panormos. We were tired, our legs were heavy, but we were full of this incredible experience. A day that we mastered as a family and on our own and will certainly never forget.
Tip for imitators: The Samaria Gorge is also very doable without a tour company, but don’t underestimate the time – especially if you have to catch the only ferry at 5:30 pm – or consider to take a hotel room and return back to your hotel or vacation home the next day.
